In mid-August, Arcana released a mini-collection called Lady Justice. As with the past Cocktails for Charity collection, the Lady Justice collection was created for a cause – in this case, 100% of profits are being donated to help a wrongfully arrested friend of Julia, the perfume mastermind behind Arcana.
I happened to have just finished placing a Rhinestone Housewife order a few minutes before I saw the news about this release, so I emailed Jeanine from RH to ask if I could tack the four Lady Justice scents onto my order. Because it’s Arcana, and it’s for a good cause, and if I was going to get two bottles I might as well just get the other two as well and complete the collection, right? I have no self-control.
Anyway, today I have half the collection for you – Gideon and Peppermint Candyflip. These were the two scents I knew I was going to get right off the bat.
Gideon: Inspired by a spunky orange tabby kitten named after Gideon v. Wainwright. Apricot, golden amber, and a saucerful of cream.
In the bottle: Sweet, creamy apricot. Like one of those fruit and cream swirled hard candies I can’t remember the name of… Creme Savers! Yes, like that but apricot.
Wet on skin: Intensely fruity and sweet at first, it mellows quickly into a beautiful creamy apricot and warm amber blend. It’s pretty evenly balanced and not as heavily fruity as it was in the bottle.
Dry Down: No big changes as it settles in. The apricot is more subtle than in the bottle or on initial application, and does get softer with wear, but it’s definitely present.
Short & Sweet: A really soft, pretty, creamy apricot and warm amber blend. This one is beautiful.
Bonus Boy Review: “I like it. It’s got a peaches and cream thing going on.” He was very pleased to have guessed correctly.
Misc: I was asked how this compares to Estella, and I would say they’re not similar at all. Amber is present in both, but Gideon is creamier and fruitier, while Estella is a slightly boozy amber/vanilla blend. I like both, but they’re definitely different on my skin. Gideon is my favorite of the two.
Peppermint Candyflip: A psychedelic blast of cold peppermint dries down to a trippy candy center of blue frosting, sugar cookies, pink musk, blueberry candy, bakery vanilla, bergamot syrup, and lemondrops.
In the bottle: Sweet peppermint! A bit musky and somehow smells blue.
Wet on skin: The mint is less intense, but it’s still the star of the show, and it’s got that cooling sensation going on when I sniff it. In the background I get a sugary musk. It’s got a cotton candy-ish vibe.
Dry Down: The mint calms down a little bit, and I get more musky vanilla and a bit of citrus. I was afraid this one might be insanely sweet given all the candy/bakery notes, but it’s really not. It’s sugary, yes, but not to the point where it’s cloying. The citrus is a nice touch and while it’s by no means tart, it does serve to balance the sweetness a bit. Further into wear, the vanilla gets stronger and smooths out the whole blend a bit.
Short & Sweet: Bracingly minty to start, Candyflip calms down into sweet mint and musky vanilla with a little of citrus. Definitely sugary but not cloyingly sweet. The vanilla is a little smoother and more prominent with wear.
Overall Thoughts: Gideon is hands down my favorite of this pair, but I like them both. I really like sweet mint scents in general, so Candyflip appeals to me, especially once it settles down and smooths out. If I’m nitpicking, I wish it was just a tiny bit less sugary and/or a little creamier, but that’s personal preference and mostly works itself out once it dries anyway. Gideon, however, is just gorgeous. I have zero nits to pick, and though I haven’t tested Miranda or De Minimus Non Curat Lex yet, I suspect is going to remain the winner of this collection for me.